Strawberries!



This post is long overdue, really. Sorry about that. It’s been a busy week, plus I’ve spent ages tweaking the photos.

Anyway, we went strawberry picking last Saturday at Lyon Farms near Creedmoor. At $1 a pound, it’s incredibly good value. DO and I picked nearly 12lbs of strawberries in less than an hour. It’s pretty easy work, and with the weather as good as it is at the moment, there’s no excuse not to go get some lovely fresh berries:


On the plant…


And in a box!

OK, so you’ve gone to some pick-you-own place (there are tons of them around) and you’ve picked your large box of strawberries. Now what on earth are you going to do with all that fruit?

I decided to make preserves. Recipe and pictures follow. The recipe and sterilizing procedure may look long and daunting, but it’s really not hard. Once you’ve done it a couple of times, it becomes very routine and quite fun. Give it a go!

Strawberry Preserves
(lightly adapted from Pickles and Preserves by Marion Brown)

Ingredients:

  • 8 cups strawberries (measured after cleaning, stemming and cutting off green bits)
  • 8 cups white sugar
  • 1 tbsp butter
  • 2 tsp vinegar (I used red wine vinegar, you can use pretty much anything)
  • 2/3 cup water


Clean berries!

Equipment:

  • Wooden spoon
  • 1 large pot (I used my Le Crueset, but anything of similar size - 5.5 qt - will do fine)
  • 1 shallow metal tray for cooling purposes
  • 12 4oz canning jars (available from Food Lion and elsewhere)
  • Tongs (preferably with silicone tips for a good grip on those jars)
  • Metal ladle
  • A few clean kitchen towels
  • A clean cloth for wiping syrup off jars

OK, got all that stuff? That’s a very large amount of sugar, so go get a 5lb bag or two…

Put the sugar, water, vinegar and butter in your pot and turn heat to medium-high. Stir constantly. It will be hard to do at first, but as the water heats, the sugar will begin to dissolve into a very thick syrup. There will still be crystals, but it will look and feel like a liquid. If you have a thermometer, you want the solution to be between 145F and 150F

The first time I tried this, I heated the sugar too slowly, eventually evaporating the water and getting the sugar to melt, rather than dissolve. This is not good. It will result in a seriously overcooked jam, which will harden to a pretty nasty jello-like substance when it cools.

Add your clean berries to the pot and stir gently, but well. The strawberries should be coated in sugar crystals. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally:


Berries almost boiling!

Once the mixture is boiling, set a timer for 15 minutes and reduce the heat closer to medium. Be careful! The mixture tends to overflow, spilling sugar onto your burner and making the kitchen smell awful. This is not good. You want your kitchen smelling like strawberries, not burnt sugar! Stir the mixture down if necessary, and keep a close eye on it.

When your timer goes DING, turn the heat off, move the pot off the hot burner and let it rest for a minute or two until the foam settles.

Pour the hot preserves into your cooling tray and put the tray somewhere safe (like the oven) to cool. This will take at least 4-6 hours. I just left them to cool overnight.


Preserves in cooling tray

Good morning! Today we will learn how to sterilize jars and can our preserves!

First thing, make sure those hands of yours and all your equipment are clean. Wash everything with lots of hot water and soap. Those new jars may look clean, but it’s worth scrubbing them anyway.

Fill your large pot with water, place six jars with their screw-tops (not the lids!) in the water and set the pot on the stove over high heat. Fill another, much smaller pot with water and do the same. The smaller pot will be used to sterilize the lids, which are not supposed to boil, as the high temperature would denature the sealing compound. Heat the small pot to 180F (just sub-simmer) and put the lids in. Reduce the heat to medium-low to keep the temperature steady.

Once the water in the large pot is at a full boil, put in your tongs and ladle. Set your timer to 10 minutes and have a cup of coffee. Seriously, have a cup of coffee. You’re going to be handling very hot glass and sterile equipment that cannot touch anything. You will have to concentrate. Drink coffee. It helps!

Lay out kitchen towels in a few layers on the table or counter top. Do this as close to your stove as possible. Take the cooled preserves out of the oven and place near your towels.

Once your timer goes DING, grab an oven mitt, pick up the tongs from the boiling water, being extremely careful not to touch the silicone. Use the tongs to pick up one HOT glass jar and place it carefully on the clean towels. Put the tongs back in the boiling water and pick up the ladle.

Under no circumstances should you touch the the inside of the jar or any of the metal parts of your equipment, nor the lids with your fingers.

Carefully ladle some of the preserves into the jar. You want to get mostly strawberries and not too much syrup. Almost fill the jar, leaving 1/4″ gap at the top. Put the ladle back in the boiling water.

Using a clean cloth, carefully wipe any syrup off the threads of the jar.

Using the tongs, pick up one of the lids from the smaller pot and carefully place it on the jar. Pick up a screw top with the tongs, place it over the jar and screw it finger-tight.

Repeat with each of your six jars.

Using your tongs again, carefully place each of the jars into the boiling water. You may need to top up the evaporating water. I kept an extra pot boiling on the side for this purpose. Set your timer to 20 minutes and drink more coffee.

Using the tongs once again, carefully remove each of the jars and place it on your towels. Each jar should go ‘pop’ as the temperature drops and the seal completes.


Completed preserves!

Repeat the whole procedure for the other six jars.

Once your jars are cool (4-6 hours), you may place them in a cool, dark place where they will keep for up to two years. You now have lots and lots of preserves. Be nice, give some to your friends!

Asparagus!




I went over the Farmer’s Market this morning, hoping to get me some asparagus - and I did!

Maybe I’ll fry them up tomorrow with an egg on top or something along those lines.

By the way, go get some Bok Choy from one of the vendors at the market. It makes a really awesome stir-fry, as long as you don’t over-fry it.

Five Points Cafe




As reported yesterday by Archer Pelican, Five Points Cafe is now open right next to Toast. I’m sitting here right now, using Durham’s public access wifi (FPC will have their own eventually). It’s too early for lunch, I think, so I started with a blueberry bar and a cup of coffee, quickly joined by a bread pudding donated to the cause of me being here by the owners :)

First thoughts: I like the setup here. Within a month or so they will have deli meats and other goodies for sale. I’ll be checking those out when they come in. The sandwiches are a little more expensive ($7-$7.50) than at Toast next door ($5-$6), but they do come with a bag of chips and a fountain drink. I can’t attest to the quality yet, but I’ll try one either in the next hour or two or next time I’m here. The coffee is supplied by Larry’s Beans, continuing the Great Larry’s vs Counter Culture War. I think both are good, personally.

FPC and Toast clearly has different goals in mind. FPC is a pretty traditional cafe, and will hopefully become a place for people working downtown to stop in and pick up some goodies for dinner when the market opens here. It’s also got a larger range of desserts. Both the blueberry bar and the bread pudding are great, though the former is a little too large for me. That’s not a complaint by any means!

They are still going through the usual opening issues: prices not quite set, certain items not being available and so on.  Therefore, I will not do a full review for about another month.  On the other hand, I’m glad to see more places to have lunch in opening in Five Points. Both Toast and FPC are owner-run and operated, which is fantastic. These are small local businesses that both look great. I wish FPC well and look forward to yet more options in the area.

Dinner @ Rue Cler




DO and I headed over for a late (8pm) dinner at Rue Cler last night. We’ve had mixed feelings about the place in the past, but are always willing to give it another chance. We have friends who swear by their food, and I’ve had some really good dishes there.

rue clear logo

Rue Cler is no Vin Rouge. It’s a straight-up French bistro, with very standard French fare. My friend MathPants, who spent a few months in Paris in late 2007, liked the food for a while, but eventually found it to be very self-similar. The range of dishes is small, so even if each one is very good, MP just found it dull after a while. MP reads this blog pretty often, so I’ll leave it to him to explain further. Anyway, back to Durham…

We ordered a Salade frisée and Soupe a l’oignon gratinée to start with. The salad comes with a sunny-side up egg on top, crunchy croutons and lardons. The frisée was clearly very fresh and crunchy. The egg’s yolk was dark yellow and runny. The textures meld very well, and the occasional bite of bacon just made sense.

The onion soup was, well, onion soup. I love the stuff, whether I make it at home or eat out. Yum.

We both ordered wine - I got a glass of Catherine et Claude Maréchal, Cuvée Gravel, Bourgogne Rouge, ‘06 to go with my upcoming Steak Frites with sauce béarnaise, and DO got a glass of Domaine de la Pépière, Clos des Briords, Muscadet-sur-Lie Sèvre et Mariné ’06 to go with her Moules frites.  DO thought her wine was ok, nothing out of this world.  I really enjoyed mine - it had good body without being overwhelming.  I find too many big reds just too big - they coat my mouth and prevent food from really standing out.  This one did nothing of the sort.  It had a full flavor, but complemented the food rather than taking over.

Talking of food, we got some.  My steak was perfectly cooked.  I ordered it rare and it came rare.  I give credit where it’s due, and RC wins many points here.  Few places in Durham actually do a proper rare steak.  These bits of tender sirloin were very, very red.  The meat was excellent.  The fries were not quite up to Vin Rouge’s standard, but pretty damn good anyway.  The béarnaise was lovely.  I’ll take this stuff over almost any other dipping sauce for my fries.

DO’s Moules frites were great.  For my money, RC makes the most tender and flavorful mussels around.  Yet more points.

We shared a Créme brûlée for dessert.  Lovely.

All in all, we had a very good dinner.  As the French might say, the food was correct.  Nothing blew my mind, but it was always good, well-prepared and very tasty.  The wines were well-paired.  I had a very pleasant evening and we have a chunk of rare steak left over for brunch tomorrow or Sunday.  I’m looking forward to that.

Beef and eggplant stew




This is from ‘A Book of Middle-Eastern Cooking’ by Claudia Roden. I made it last night for potluck and it went down very well - unlike the Hungarian boiled jam dumplings DO and I failed pretty miserably at…

Beef and Eggplant Stew

  • 1 medium-large eggplant
  • 1 medium-large onion, chopped
  • 1 1/2 lbs beef (or veal) stew, cut into 1″ cubes
  • 1 large can whole tomatoes (or 5 small-medium plum tomatoes, peeled)
  • UPDATE (I forgot this): Juice from 1/2 lemon
  • 1 1/2 tbsp tomato paste
  • 3/4 tsp ground cumin (or flash-roasted and chopped - see below)
  • 1/2 tsp allspice
  • Salt and pepper
  • Olive oil

Cut the eggplant into slices and sprinkle with salt on both sides. Lay out on a cutting board and leave for 1 hour.

If you want to chop your own cumin (I highly recommend this - it makes your kitchen smell awesome), heat a small heavy skillet over high heat for a minute or two, then pour some cumin seeds in. The instant you start to smell them, grab the pan and pour the seeds onto a chopping board. With a large sharp knife, chop them into a powder:

chopped cumin
I love my chef’s knife!

In a heavy pot, heat some olive oil and saute the onions until soft, sweet and translucent. Add the meat and brown well:


I also love meat juices!

Add the tomatoes to the pot and crush them into the mix. Add the tomato paste, UPDATE: lemon juice, cumin and allspice and stir well to mix. Add water to just cover, plus salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil and simmer, covered, for 1 1/2 hours:


Speaking of things I love, notice my red Le Creuset pot!

Wash the eggplant slices well and pat dry with paper towels. Heat some more olive oil in a large skillet until it’s hot and aromatic. Fry the eggplant slices on both sides until well-colored. This will take two or more batches unless your skillet is the size of a small house.

Add the eggplants to the stew, mix well and continue to simmer, covered, for another 30min:


Lovely stew!

Serves 4.

UPDATE from (too-long-silent) DurmOnion: I had some leftovers of this stew for lunch today. One wonderful thing about it is that, thanks to frying beforehand, the eggplant does not disintegrate into mush, even the next day. Awesome!

And another UPDATE from DF: Indeed.  Frying the eggplants seals them, so they are less permeable to mush-making juices.  It also gives them a wonderful flavor and soft meaty texture.  Eggplants are hard to coax into being edible.  Salting, then frying, then adding them to whatever dish you’re making is often the way to go.

Quick dinner post




Since I wrote about the baby turnips yesterday, I figured I’d post about what I actually ended up doing with them. Well, I roasted the turnips themselves in duck fat and olive oil, with some potatoes. The turnip greens were lightly sauteed with onions. Those two were served with a warm spinach salad with a garlic/yogurt dressing and some couscous with green peas. Apart from the duck fat, this meal was actually entirely vegetarian. That’s why I used the duck fat ;)

Anyway, pictures below. Not so great this time, but I’m messing around with the camera…

baby turnips, potatoes and greens
Potatoes, turnip babies and their greens


Dinner, onaplate (10 points to anyone who gets the reference)

The sauteed greens were wonderful - a little sweet and crunchy. The turnips themselves were less impressive - the potatoes were far better.

First Farmer’s Market of the season - and first picture post!




DO and I went to the opening of the new season of the Durham Farmer’s Market this morning. My aim was to find asparagus, but apparently that will be another week. Instead, we got some Brinkley Farms eggs, some bacon, spinach and baby turnips. I’ve never had baby turnips before, so I’m looking forward to roasting them and sauteing the leaves for dinner tonight or tomorrow, as advised by the seller…


We didn’t actually buy any lettuce, but I like the picture!

After the market, we headed back home for breakfast. The bacon needs to be defrosted, so that will wait until tomorrow. We sliced up a couple of potatoes, parboiled them for a minute or so, then tossed them in our skillet with chopped parsley. When they were almost done, I threw in four eggs, ground a little black pepper on and waited for our sunny-sides-up to fry:


Eggs and Potatoes!

Then it was on to the plate, toast added, cheese cut and yummy breakfast ensues:


Cheese not shown…

Just time for one more bonus picture - here are our first Brinkley Farms eggs since our last CSA ended:

So, that’s it for my first picture post. As you may have discovered already, you can click on the pictures for larger images. If anyone has any comments and/or critiques of the photos, please comment here. I’m just starting to get used to this new lens, so hopefully the pics will get better over time :)

Two exciting bits of news




  1. I got my new camera lens, finally.  I will soon start including self-made pictures of food!
  2. I found a copy of ‘Pickles and Preserves’ by Marion Brown - the 1955 edition with a 2002 foreward by Damon Lee Fowler.  I will occasionally post stuff from the book as I try my hand at jams, marmalades and preserves.  I think I’ll start with strawberries, as the season is upon us!

PS The book has been sitting around in a bit of our kitchen for ages, unnoticed by me.  How silly!

White bean and ham soup




This is a nice easy one for the chillier spring nights. It does require that you soak the dried beans in water overnight (or quick soak them) but is otherwise really pretty quick. Mark Bittman claims you don’t need to soak beans. I disagree, since I’ve found them easier to cook (and digest!) when pre-soaked. Do as you will :)

White Bean and Ham Soup

  • 3/4 lb smoked ham, cut into largish chunks
  • 1 green bell pepper, chopped
  • 2 sticks celery, chopped
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 medium onion, chopped
  • 3 cloves garlic
  • 2 qt pork stock (or chicken stock if you didn’t just spend all morning boiling pork bones - but at least make it yourself on a rainy day and freeze!)
  • 3/4 cup dried white beans, soaked overnight (or quick soaked - see above)
  • 1 1/2 tbsp butter
  • A few sprigs lemon thyme (or regular thyme if your partner’s parents didn’t just give a plant of the lemon stuff)

Heat the butter over medium heat in a heavy-bottomed pot. Saute the onions and garlic until translucent, add the ham chunks and sweat them for a few minutes. Add the celery, pepper and lemon thyme and keep cooking, stirring once in a while, for about 5 minutes. Add the beans and cover with stock. Bring to a boil and simmer uncovered for 1 hour. The broth will have thickened a little and will be quite rich with flavor.

Serve with chopped green onions sprinkled on top.

Serves 4

I’m sure this would be great with some bacon thrown in, or maybe just a smoked pork hock.

OK, I’m quick…




Got the email, put a stock on the stove to cook, jumped on my bike and headed to Watts. Of course I did…

I had a hard time deciding between the fried green tomato BLT and the shrimp burger. I think that BLT sounds awesome, and that putting a fried green tomato in is pretty inspired, but I ended up with the shrimp burger. BLT for next time! I also got a glass of sweet ice tea and a chocolate-pecan bar.

The burger came with fries (you can get a salad, and I was going to, but Zavi told me I was crazy, so I changed my mind), cocktail sauce, ketchup, lettuce and onion, all on the side.

This was my first shrimp burger anywhere and it was good! Lots of corn and bits of shrimp, all lightly breaded and fried. A little sweet, a little meaty, but soft and tender. Yummy stuff. I was no big fan of the cocktail sauce, but then I’m not a big fan of the stuff in general, so my opinion shouldn’t count.

The dessert was knock-out sweet. I got a pretty big slice, and could probably have done with a little less for lunch. Anyway, it’s good.

I’ll be back soon for that cobbler! It’s dinner-only, by the way.